In this case, my Eyelet Chemise:
HoneyBee33 has written an excellent tutorial on knitted darts, which I highly recommend, and on which this demonstration is based.
Here, I have:
- Summarised the parts that relate specifically to short row darts.
- Demonstrated how to decide where to put the darts and what size they should be.
- Provided links to some great photo-tutorials for executing short rows.
Here’s what you do:
1. Note down some measurements:
- Row gauge per inch. Mine is often off, so check your actual row gauge, not just what it ought to be.
- The length of the finished garment.
- Your shoulder to back waist.
- Your shoulder to front waist – tie a length of yarn around your waist to make sure your back and front measurements are consistent.
- Your shoulder to bust point
2. Calculate the depth of your darts:
- Subtract your shoulder-to-back-waist measurement from your shoulder-to-front-waist measurement.
- Multiply the answer by the number of rows per inch.
- Divide this number in half. This is the number of stitches you will wrap.
3. Calculate where to start working the short rows:
- Subtract your shoulder to bust point measurement from the garment shoulder to hem measurement.
- The result is how far from the cast on edge you start the short rows.
A couple of extra notes:
- When inserting bust darts into a cardigan, one dart goes at each side edge, which means the centre front of the cardigan will be longer than the centre back.
- If you are knitting the garment in one piece, start the darts at the last stitch on the front. If you are knitting front(s) and back separately, start the darts a couple of stitches from the edge.
This is what I did for my Eyelet Chemise:
- Row gauge: 8.25 rows per inch.
- Garment length: 20″.
- Shoulder to back waist: 18″
- Shoulder to front waist: 20″
- Shouder to bust point: 10″
2. Depth of darts:
- Subtract shoulder-to-back-waist measurement from shoulder-to-front-waist measurement. 20 – 18 = 2″.
- Multiply the answer by the number of rows per inch. 2 x 8.25 = 16.5.
- Divide this number in half. This is the number of stitches you will wrap. 16.5 divided by 2 8.25, rounded down to 8 wraps.
3. Where to start them:
- Subtract shoulder to bust point measurement from the garment shoulder to hem measurement: 20 – 10 = 10″ from bottom edge.
This is how it should look after you have wrapped all your stitches:
And here they are in the finished cardigan:
Please feel free to contact me if any part of this tutorial is unclear; I would love to hear from you. Click the Contact link to the left of the page to get in touch with me.